AUTUM / WINTER 2016-17

"Many people can do heroic things, but hero is not a noun, it´s a verb".

There is a stipulated idea of the hero as one who embodies free will, who takes on great feats through virtue and integrity, who is a model of conduct and an archetype of excellence; something that doesn’t interest me at all. Perhaps this is because I constantly wonder what happens when the hero’s good will is tainted by pain, affected by longing and darkened by loss; circumstances that are rejected rather than honored by the community.

The anonymous hero, the ordinary one or the one who holds the secondary role: this is the antihero that truly seduces me. The ones that don’t fall within the canons of perfection, the ones whose personal circumstances distance them from the notion of hero, but just like the hero, they are also transgressors. The “antihero” suffers and collapses but searches for any kind of personal motivations to get back up countless times to risk it all again, fall back down and start over.

The wishes that escape in the shape of inflatable balloons, the treacherous dreams, fleeing to outer space and Major Tom, unwavering, following those dreams that are more and more unreachable, but whose conscious ingenuousness allows him to maintain his own beliefs and plant them as black stars in outer space.
And on the surface of those balloons another fictitious antihero appears, whose ingenuousness is even more latent: Donald Duck. He is the most unfortunate of them all, clumsy, good-natured, and generous and a tireless fighter always making ends meet, but who is fundamentally an optimist. Despite everything, he is the grand secondary character without whom other main characters would not shine as the protagonists in the fascinating imaginary world of Disney.


Dedicated to all of the anonymous antiheroes who will always have interesting stories to tell which we will be seduced by.

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• SILHOUETTES, FABRICS AND COLORS •

I worked on the whole collection by looking for balance through imbalance. This imbalance is influenced on the one hand by contemporary culture and imaginary pop in its most unclassifiable or unpredictable form, something that is always present in my work, and on the other hand by extolling sophistication through exquisite garment making, in the search of materials and finishes.

I combined youth culture garments as a synonym of the anonymous antihero and joined or sometimes juxtaposed them with the skillful exquisiteness of garment making and the most classic tailoring, as a synonym of the hero’s irreproachable conduct, creating a hybridization process. The “alpha” bomber, such a unique garment, is bound, in this case, to the tailoring throughout the whole collection with the aim of creating a new distorted silhouette. This silhouette provokes, on the one hand, a certain estrangement of the antihero and on the other hand represents his or her transgression.

Donald Duck is an anthropomorphized symbol of the ingenuousness and complexity of the antihero, the eternal secondary character and counterpoint of the principal character. In this case, his image is that of a balloon escaping to the sky, representing lost dreams and unreachable wishes, creating an irretrievably captivating image.

The garments are sewn with layers and textures of different fabrics: the classic wool and mohair coats, the synthetic hair knit with metallic finishes and printed sweaters and dresses, the double-sided paillette creating black and white stripes on skirts and trousers, the silk fringe dyed in degradé, the embroidered flowers on washed silk, the thick tweed in an array of grey colors, the chantilly lace, the plumeti chiffon, the striped muslin or the fringed mesh for the evening dresses.

White, snow, blush, pale turquoise, olive, fog, sea foam, ash, soot, raven, black.